Back in the Zambezi Valley
The Zambezi Valley is a magic place we keep coming back to. This time we took one of our nephews along and it was great to witness the beauty of this place through his unspoiled eyes.
The backdrop of the Lower Zambezi National Park is formed by an escarpment, which rises from the original valley floor. On the floor you will find ancient baobab trees on “Out of Africa like” open plains. These drop off towards the mighty Zambezi river. The sun sets behind the escarpment, creating silhouettes of the animals crossing it. Both elephants and buffalo move towards the escarpment late in the afternoon, to feed there during the night. They will return to the water to drink during the day.
The former floodplains are now overgrown by the iconic winterthorn forests with its beautiful arches and trees overgrown with creepers. Elephants love these trees for their fresh leaves and nutritious seedpods. They reach for those and might even stand on their back legs, like we witnessed on previous visits to the Zambezi Valley.
Since the construction of the Kariba dam in the late fifties the big annual floods are blocked, but the rainy season still defines the landscape. Dry riverbeds and pools fill up. Channels flood and can create small islands in the river, trapping some of the animals left behind. Hippos love to be on the more grassy islands. Making lots of noise during their nightly feeding and defending their turf.
Playing hide and seek with predators
“Eat or be eaten” applies to all the inhabitants of the bush, even the predators. For them it pays to stay away from the competition and to surprise the hunted. Photographic safaris may turn into a game of hide and seek this way.
Lion prides cross the channels and disappear to the islands for days, leaving us searching for them in vain. One afternoon we found them feeding on a baby hippo which they must have stalked during mums nightly feeding. A group of 20 giggeling hyenas were trying to get their share but had to wait for their turn.
There is an abundance of predators competing for food in this amazing ecosystem. Apart from the lions and the hyenas, a pack of wild dogs were denning near the escarpment and were roaming the plains for food. Leopards seem to have found niches where they are not bothered by baboons too much and are chilled enough to show themselves.
The baboon families are cool to watch. There are lots of politics going on and they are very vocal. Often they are the first to announce the presence of a predator. So it is best to switch off the car now and then to listen for the many early warning calls of the bush. The baboons, guinea fowls or tree squirrels announcing a bird of prey, a snake or a cat. Time to get the cameras out!
